Shoes Of The Week - Pigskin Wholecuts by Carreducker

The more that I see pigskin used for shoemaking, the more that it grows on me. At first I was not so keen on it, not really sure why, just that I wasn't. But with each time that I get to see a new shoe made up using it, the more that I begin to appreciate the uniqueness of its texture and coloring. Now I could be making this up in my head, but having been around the two or three bespoke models that I have shined, I always seem to notice that the toe area's texture is a bit different than the rest of the shoe (as shown best in last picture). It's as if that when they were lasted over, the grain of the skin expanded and became a lot more smooth and prominent. It's quite a nice look and makes for a great toe shine. This model here, made by Carreducker, is almost precisely how I would want one should it ever come to that. I feel like when it comes to exotic leather, being that most of them have some sort of ostentatious texture to them, they are best served without any added detail i.e. stitching. That being, a whole cut provides the best pattern for them, at least my mind. But that does not mean that I do not appreciate them (exotic leather shoes) in other examples....just that I much more prefer the beautiful blank canvas of the whole cut....particularly in a nice pigskin!

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Shoe Of The Day - Altan Bottier

Dear Readers,

I know that I normally do long posts on Monday, and I actually was writing one and had finished all of the text, when the internet froze and deleted a paragraph and a half of writing. Today has already been "one of those days" and now I simply can't be bothered to finish it by tonight. That being, feast your eyes on these beauties, by Altan Bottier, and please come back tomorrow to read my post about the different grades of shoe craftsmanship.

Thanks for your understanding.

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

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Today's Favorites - Septieme Largeur

I figured that while I have been pitching wholecuts quite tough for the last few weeks or so, I might as well keep on! I mean, how could I not after seeing these bad boys by Septieme Largeur? It just makes sense, doesn't it? I think so.....Nevertheless, the beauty about having a custom patina done on your shoes is the fact that you can have any shade of color that you would like, and even multiple shades of many colors if you fancy that. You see, for me, this blue is perfect. It's not too light, but it's not too dark either. It's just right and shows you that it is a blue. There would be not question about it, like navy can sometimes come across as black. This is blue, period. But you would have a hard time finding this exact color at a leather tannery or supplier. There might be something close, but not exact, and more likely than not, once lasted it would not look the same. It's amazing how far along shoes have come since their conception. I remember once going to some museum and seeing replicas of some of the first shoes made, and to think that since then we can now do what we do, having customized fit, color, shape, detail etc....it's quite amazing.....yet I feel that we are at the peak in terms of customization (not craftsmanship), because what more could we truly do to make a shoe unique? Add hovering capabilities? :-)

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What I Am Wearing

For the life of me, I still cannot understand why I don't see more gentlemen wearing burgundy shoes. Come to think of it, I can't seem to recall, ever since I have been in this country (England), having seen someone wearing burgundy shoes with a suit, and almost, burgundy shoes period. It's such a lovely color that compliments blue better than any other color (even brown), yet it would appear that not many other people share that same sentiment. It could also very well be that English shoemakers (from what I have seen) don't really offer that many shoes in the burgundy color. Sure they may have one or two out of their entire collection, but if you don't happen to like the model that the burgundy shoe comes in, you aren't going to buy it, are you? It's literally like people have just been conditioned to make black shoes and wear them, with everything they have. Of course you have the rebellious ones that wear brown, but rare are the men who put on a burgundy shoe. Well, for now I guess that I will stand alone, and hope that with the introduction of my shoe line, and my burgundy wholecut that will be offered, more people will see that it's a lovely color that compliments, beautifully, a navy suit!

Shoes: Bespoke, made by me
Suit: Gieves & Hawkes, Made To Measure
Shirt: Don't remember, from TK Maxx
Tie: Tino Cosma

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Shoes Of The Week - Bestetti Gray Wholecuts

The nice thing about Riccardo Bestetti's shoes is the fact that you can clearly see the defined lines that have been shaped by the lasting of the leather over the last. If not shaped properly during the making process these lines can be blurred into nothing, looking like the last was just some round blob. Granted, most makers have the skill to not let this happen but.....just saying. Now, the wholecut is the absolute hardest shoe to last, because you don't have the give that is created by having multiple pieces of leather stitched together. It being one piece makes it much harder to shape and pull over the last without any air pockets being created, particularly on the outside of the bottom bit of lacing. But looking at these shoes, you see that it was done properly and every line of that last is represented here, from good making. Now aside from being beautifully shaped, I love the idea of a gray wholecut, much better than the black version that is so necessary in today's society. But imagine if we let go of the idea of a black shoe being standard....how nice would it be to have gray be the new black? For me, it would be amazing!

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The Only Dress Shoe Ever Really Needed - The Black Wholecut

Gaziano & Girling Deco Range: Cooper

This title might sound like shoe lover blasphemy, and believe me I can't say that I would ever think of just having one, but.....if life presented itself with this situation, it's best to be equipped with what is going to get you through it all. What made me think of this was a discussion that was occurring on Style Forum (a while back) in regards to one's absolute shoe essentials. One gentleman stated that instead of having multiple essentials, he would have preferred to have just one shoe that could get him through each and every situation. Now, he did not mention the black wholecut, and this is where him and I will differ but I got to thinking about people out there who may only be able to afford getting just one or simply can't justify having multiple options. That being, thinking about society, 'the rules' and 'norms', and all of the different possible outfits one would need in life, I decided to create my own little idea of what would be the best option out there for all around purposes. And because I once learned in philosophy class at Uni that every statement needs to be argued against and then re-argued for, I will list my don'ts and do's below.

Berluti

What Not To Wear Black Wholecuts With

In all of the shoe-dom, there is not one shoe style that goes with everything, not even the versatile brown full brogue (can't pair it with black!). And while you might think that a black shoe can go with most things...let me tell you that the wholecut is just not any 'ol black shoe. It's in another category due to it's cleanliness look from being virtually stitch free. That being, there are some types of trousers that just won't measure up to the aesthetic of the black wholecut. For example, jeans being one of them. While I am a total jean guy and do like to wear my leather soled shoes with jeans, I don't think that I would ever pair a black wholecut with them. It's just too contrasting: a mega-dress shoe with real casual trousers (jeans). It just doesn't work. Same thing with khakis, they are simply too casual for the likes of the black wholecut. It would not look right, as neither would anything green or brown. Now you might feel that there are many things limiting here....but in reality, how often do you wear green or brown trousers? Khakis and jeans are much more common, but are also much more casual and hence the title being about a dress shoe, I feel that this is not so bad!

Koji Suzuki

What To Wear Black Wholecuts With

Now this list is going to be much more extensive, not so much in option of clothing, but in colors that the average person uses. Think about what we wear most: grays and blues (mostly navy), particularly in our suiting. While I used to not be an advocate of pairing navy with black, the more I find myself here in England, the more I find it acceptable. While it still would not ever be my preferred pairing, it does look good when needing to be elegantly conservative. That being, you satisfy most of your professional wardrobe, not to mention anything that is formal. In reality, you don't need a patent shoe, but just need to put a real nice shine on a black wholecut and instead of being like everyone else at the black tie event, you will be the one with a brilliant shine and a much more elegant shoe (in my opinion). As for other occasions, what do you wear when going to an interview? What do you wear when going to a nice dinner? You wear black shoes. And the wholecut, being the most elegant of all, will neither look too formal nor too shabby. It will be the safe choice. Obviously, these are not end-all-be-all rules, but when talking about the one shoe that will safely get you by in every occasion, you can't go wrong with the black dress shoe, and even more so, than the minimalistic wholecut. So, if you are a young chap looking for your first dress shoe, look no further than a lovely black wholecut!

Gaziano & Girling bespoke model

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