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Shoe Of The Week - Maftei

As the world progresses, it becomes harder and harder to say that one thing, whether it be a product or service, is best found here or there. This used to be the case many years ago, but as people become more and more curious about the arts and crafts that were once famous in a certain area, they begin to take it upon themselves to become just as good. Some even go as far as becoming better. So, for me it's very nice to discover shoemakers that come from areas that one not might suspect would be a place that offers bespoke shoes at a high caliber. While this might still be the case in some countries, it is definitely not in Austria, as this shoe by Maftei looks just as good as any prominent maker in the industry. Not only does the shoe look good in a construction aspect, but the style is among my current favorites, pairing two colors that I love together and doing it in a very unique and beautiful way. Have a look through his site and maybe you too will find something that strikes your fancy and presents itself as unique and individual.

Shoes Of The Week - Bontoni Whole Cuts

Even though I can be pretty ostentatious and like shoes that are crazy colors and uniquely designed, I still admire more than anything a shoe that defies all matter of out-of-the-box creativity and sticks to the basics, such as this elegant whole cut by Bontoni. And even more so, I love a whole cut that has brogueing on it. The brogueing somehow adds to the beauty of the shoe, not quite taking away from the fact that it is an actual whole cut, but providing that little bit of extra pizazz to not make it so plain and possibly boring. Then to top if all off, the leather of this shoe, which has clearly been given a beautiful patina, adds just that much more to the overall elegance and desirability of the shoe, creating something that in my mind will go down as one of the nicest shoes that I have ever seen. A bold statement definitely, but a true one....

Picture Compliments Of: The Style Buff

The Agelessness of the Black Dress Shoe

Shoes are a funny thing......like most things, especially in clothing, fashion, style or whatever you want to call it, they change. There are always fads, trends, styles that are the next big thing and then one season later, they are nowhere to be found, dead, lost in a sea of rubbish that is manipulated year after year by people who claim to be style or marketing experts and tell us what is 'in' or 'cool'. But are they really??? Some are yes, but many aren't. And I guess this is the reason that they fade out and disappear, never to be thought of again until they come back 30 years later in the recycling of fashion due to the change of the times and minds of the youth. But there are articles of clothing that seem to stand the test of time, and year after year without fail, be purchased as if they were the next big thing, yet in reality are older than dirt, only to be changed by shape. In shoes, that article is the black cap-toe.

Yet why is the black cap-toe so timeless? Sure, there are many obvious reasons (at least one would think), but when you really think about these reasons, I don't feel that they present a factual argument, but rather a subjective one that somehow became integrated into the minds of men, forever to be seen as truth. One example would be, that black goes with everything. Now I don't believe this statement for one second. Black, albeit an easy color to work with, does not, in fact, go with everything. You might think it does, and therefore put it with everything, but it in many cases actually dulls down a lot of outfits. But I guess that when you think about it, it's the lesser of the evils. What I mean by that is when you pair black, with say brown, and it does not look right, it's far less obvious and ostentatious then getting the match between lime green and brown wrong. That lime green is going to stand out like a sore thumb and make people stare at you. But if you were to wear a brown suit and have black shoes on, it would not be so noticeable, even though I would dare to say that it would be a very clashing thing to look at. But because of the fact that is is not as noticeable, it becomes 'safe.'

Another interesting thing about black, is that it takes the best shine. This is strange to me, because it's the color with the least amount of depth to it. Brown, for example, has like 9 million different shades, yet black only has one. But now that I think about it, that seems to be the actual reason that when you shine a black shoe, to a mirror like standard, it's contrast to the leather around is far more noticeable than on any other color, because of it's lack of depth. There is just black. So therefore, you get black and then patent-like black and difference presents such a strong contrast to each other. But because of that, it also (at least in my mind) looks the best when shined. And I believe that this is why it's the best color for formal occasions, and precisely why patent is generally regarded as the most formal material: because of that shine.

And while I could probably go on and on about why I might hate or love black shoes, I cannot deny the fact that they will simply never be a fad, trend, blip on the scale of styles but rather maintain their position as the shoe at the top of the food chain, forever sought after by businessmen, bartenders, church men, common men, young men, old men, pretty much EVERY MAN, simply because it's fail proof!

Shoe By: Saion

Shoes Of The Week - Gaziano & Girling Kent

The galosh (or balmoral or whatever you want to call it) style of shoe, that has a separation from the top piece (facing extended to heel) and bottom piece (vamp extending to heel) is one of my favorite models simply for the fact that it's options in leather or material pairings are endless. When creating a pair of shoes that you will release to the public, you have to make sure that you do something that is going to appeal to the majority and not be something that only you or a handful of people would like (which is very difficult to do). So when I saw these Kent model make ups, by Gaziano & Girling, with the top piece being alligator, I was taken aback by how well the combination went together. The patina of the alligator is probably what captures me most, as it truly gives the shoe a feel of antiquity. Now this might be one of those things that is only liked by a few people, as I personally believe that it takes one of extreme self confidence to pull these off. But at the same time, they are not ostentatious and because the alligator is so small and is on the upper part of the shoe, I do believe that this shoe could easily fit into someone's work wardrobe, as well as their casual one.....

In case any of you were wondering, Budapest is beautiful and I will have a nice write up of my trip to Laszlo Vass' store on Monday. Until then, enjoy the rest of your weekends

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Pictures Courtesy Of: Leffot

Shoes Of The Week - Septieme Largeur

Among every other model of shoe, the Adelaide is definitely one my top favorites. Almost a whole cut, but not quite, it allows for the wearer to play with coloring, as you will find that the top piece on the facing is usually made up of something that contrasts, weather it be the color or the material. This pair here by Septieme Largeur, is an example of the MTO patina service that they offer, allowing for customers to customize their shoes. Not a very daring color contrast presented here, but an elegant and complimentary one nonetheless. It's always a pleasure to see what the customers of SL have been ordering, as they seem to be a daring bunch that love to own multi-colored shoes, much like I do. While I still never see people wearing them, it's at least nice enough to know that they are buying them. If you ever end up getting a pair from this company in contrasting colors, please send me a pic so that I can see what you have come up with.

Enjoy the weekend,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

A Return To Italy (and Stefano Bemer)

Over my quick holiday visit to the in-laws in Perugia, Italy, I managed to pop over to my old town of Firenze (where I once lived for circa 1 year). I had the intention of going back to Stefano Bemer's shop (where I learned to make bespoke shoes) and saying hi to all of my old colleagues, as well as hopefully snapping some pictures of any new models made. Being that plans don't always happen they way that you want them to (and that fact that my wife was waiting for me at a nearby cafe) I was unable to take any pictures, as my time was rushed having to explain to my friends what I am currently up to while trying my best to speak in rusty, broken Italian. It was quite unfortunate, though, as Stefano was not around and I was unable to tell him of my progress, of which I hope that he would have been proud to say that it all started at his shop, my entrance into the bespoke shoe realm.... Nevertheless, I remembered that while living there, I had taken many pictures of the shop that I don't believe I ever posted on the blog, and thought that now would be the perfect time to do so.

If you look at the picture at the very top, you can see that two of the bespoke shoes that I made (#2 & #5) came from the patterns of the shoes second from the left and third from the right, only that I slightly altered minute details such as coloring, piping thickness and last shape. Looking back at these pictures (which only make up a small amount of the entire collection), I must say that Stefano Bemer, while relatively unknown by the majority of people, makes some of the most beautiful shoes that I have ever seen! He is excellent, in my opinion, at pairing certain patterns (designs) with certain last shapes as well as putting together wonderful color combinations. With that in mind, I still wonder why you don't find his shoes selling at more outlets around the world....

While I had a great time in Italy (living there and learning) and would not have traded that experience for anything in the world, I realized that during my short and nostalgic visit back, that I have truly found myself in probably the absolute best place that I could be for making my goals come into fruition (that being London). It makes one realize how funny and coincidental life can be. And if you would have asked me 6-7 years ago, whether I could see myself being and living in London, I would have said, "no way!" But now I am here, and I feel like I have found my second home, a place that I enjoy and can feel comfortable and secure in. It's a great a feeling and am glad to have had this trip back to Italy to be able to experience it......Anyway enough of the sentimental babble, I hope that all of you had a wonderful holiday season and are getting ready for a great New Year's celebration. 2012 is going to be a great one!!

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Happy Holidays!

Dear All,

As we wind down another year, I just want to thank all of you that have been loyal readers, commentators and advocates of the blog and my aspirations. Without all of you, it would be hard to continue writing.

Alas, I am finally off to have some much needed 'away' time in the beautiful country of Italy. And while I can't wait to go stuff myself with pasta and wine, I regretfully admit that I will out of touch with the computer world while there, not being accessible to the blog or my email. That being, enjoy these pictures of 3 new models by Riccardo Bestetti, which are simply breathtaking....

I will return on the 27th for more blogging and until then I wish everyone a happy holiday season!

All the best,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Red Trousers....Get Some!

I am not 100% positive in saying this, but I am quite sure that I prior to moving to Europe to study shoemaking, I never ever saw anyone wear red trousers. But over here in Europe, they are literally a staple piece in most stylish mens' wardrobe, which I think is quite great! I feel like many men in the States (or maybe just Seattle, where I am from) are mentally confined to simply wearing either navy, gray or khaki colored trousers. Yet over here, come Spring, you see everything but those, ranging from canary yellow, to baby blue to bright green. Obviously not everyone partakes in the colored trouser activity, but it is quite appealing to see just how elaborate people's outfits can become when they do give it a shot. While I can't say that I own any of those other colors that I just listed, I do find myself gravitating towards my reds quite often. And the nice thing about them (at least the color) is that they are not simply for spring occasions, being that they are a deeper red, which allows me to also put them on in the fall/winter. So, if you don't own a pair, I suggest you reconsider....it will liven up your wardrobe!

Shoes: Septieme Largeur (with custom blue patina)
Trousers: Zara
Jacket: Pete Werth
Jumper: Intimissimi
Shirt: Primark
Bow Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

Today's Favorites - Septieme Largeur

I figured that while I have been pitching wholecuts quite tough for the last few weeks or so, I might as well keep on! I mean, how could I not after seeing these bad boys by Septieme Largeur? It just makes sense, doesn't it? I think so.....Nevertheless, the beauty about having a custom patina done on your shoes is the fact that you can have any shade of color that you would like, and even multiple shades of many colors if you fancy that. You see, for me, this blue is perfect. It's not too light, but it's not too dark either. It's just right and shows you that it is a blue. There would be not question about it, like navy can sometimes come across as black. This is blue, period. But you would have a hard time finding this exact color at a leather tannery or supplier. There might be something close, but not exact, and more likely than not, once lasted it would not look the same. It's amazing how far along shoes have come since their conception. I remember once going to some museum and seeing replicas of some of the first shoes made, and to think that since then we can now do what we do, having customized fit, color, shape, detail etc....it's quite amazing.....yet I feel that we are at the peak in terms of customization (not craftsmanship), because what more could we truly do to make a shoe unique? Add hovering capabilities? :-)

Some More J. FitzPatrick Prototypes....!

Dear Readers,

I have finally received the rest of my prototypes, adjusted up to this point, and am feeling a whole lot better about the way that my line is taking shape. At this moment, the shoes are finally done with all of the pattern adjustments, which takes up the majority of the prototype work. Now, I just have to finalize the minute details like lining & sole colors, perfecting the medallion (placing on shoe and style), making sure that the shoes (patterns) are consistent with one another (when using the same pattern on two different lasts) and have them wear tested by a trusted expert who can give me constructive feedback on fit and comfort. I assume that I will need to take one more trip to my factory, sort out the rest of the work and have them re-made one more time for the final prototypes to become complete. I am thinking (best case scenario) that this will be sometime in May/June that I will receive them back. At that point, I can't say whether or not my shoes will be ready for A/W 2012 release. I guess that it will depend on who takes them and how fast we can sort the business stuff out. Nevertheless, please know that I am doing everything that I can to make sure that the shoes come out quickly, but that the shoes are also going to look good and hold the integrity of the price that they will be selling at.

(Toe shape more accurate looking to picture on right)

When looking at the pictures, try to bear in mind that I took these very fast (just to show all of you) and right after they came out of the shipping box. So, if they look a little rough around the edges, that's because they are, as I did not do anything to enhance their look, especially as they are all just prototypes that will not be apart of my true finalized samples. At this point, I have shown you just a little over half of the collection, and mostly all of the straight forward stuff. There are still about 6 styles that I am going to leave until the prototypes are completely finalized. I do this first and foremost, because I would like to leave a bit of excitement and anticipation in the air and partly because I do not wish to release all of my ideas to some of the people that read this blog (i.e. other shoe brands, designers etc.) before they are ready to be released to the world. Just so that you know, allow me to go over what I have showed you and what will be left for later.

What I have shown you: Cap toe oxford, saddle oxford brogue, penny loafer, chukka boot (in pointy last), plain toe quarter brogue with medallion (in black leather on pointy last and suede version on round last), Prince Albert wholecut loafer and derby with piping.

What I haven't shown you: Balmoral boot, double monk strap, chukka boot (in round last with heavy sole), derby without piping, oxford saddle shoe, oxford wholecut with brogueing, and jodhpur boot.

What I am hoping from all of you, as I want to involve you in this whole process, is to start thinking about the models that I have showed you and to give me your thoughts on what colors you would love to see them in. When the prototypes are all finalized, I will put them up for a week or so, in order to let all of you give your top picks for color options. But, as a way to get that process going now, in order to speed things up, I would be more than happy to have you list them in the comments section below. Bare in mind that I will have to look at all of the comments and make a decision based on what is most feasible, sellable and popular.

For the derby shoe below, I am still very unsure about the piping that I originally thought would look good. I know that it is not for the common individual, but thought that it would pose as something fun for the shoe lover that wants something a bit different. Obviously, this derby will also come without the piping, but when making prototypes, I believe that you should make the craziest things first to know what they look like. It's easy to imagine it without the piping but would be difficult to understand how it looks with it, without having seen it. So please, tell me what you all think. If I keep it in the collection, it will most likely be a one-off anyway.

I hope that all of you are enjoying watching the progress of my shoe line, as it unfolds and are also enjoying the product that I have created thus far. Do know that there is still more to come, some fun stuff too, the stuff that you would expect to see from me, after all this time of talking about colors, details etc... But I want to save it until later so you will just have to trust that it is there...

Thanks to everyone who has supported me and who eagerly awaits the release of my shoe line...

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Shoes Of The Week - Alfred Sargent

Picture Courtesy of Style Sage

I once did a post talking about how I felt that the brown full-brogue was the most versatile shoe there is and even though this shoe above, by Alfred Sargent, is not considered a "full-brogue," it really makes me feel that my statement was bang-on, as I feel that I could wear this shoe with just about everything! Not only is everything that has to do with the design, like pattern, last shape and contrasted sole, but the color of the upper is absolutely exquisite. Out of the trillion shades of brown that there is, I really think that this is the best one that I have yet to see. It has a perfect blend between a mid-brown and a chocolate, being a bit dark but not so much so that it could be mistaken for black.....Gosh, it's so hard being a shoe freak, especially one that is starting his own range, as it makes me feel that I will have to stick to wearing only my shoes, but that idea alone goes very much against the grain of my soul, as I will continue to yearn for other models.....ah what dilemmas! That being, as you may have gathered from it all, this shoe is lovely and is precisely the shoe that every man needs to complete his wardrobe: a dark brown brogue of sorts....

I hope that everyone has a wonderful weekend. Until Monday....

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Shoes Of The Week - Septieme Larguer

What an absolutely beautiful color!! The complexity of it amazes me, with how many different shades of blue (my favorite color) there is. From navy, to teal, to sea blue etc. it's a array of blues that leaves one of the most amazing colors (if not the best) that I have seen on a pair of shoes. I just might have to commission one of these and unfortunately steal the idea of whomever is the owner. Don't worry, I would do a different model, as not to be an exact copy-cat! Septieme Largeur continues to impress me, particularly with how easy they make having a shoe company is, from their classic (yet unique) styles to their amazing patinas, to the lovely last shapes and finally, the wonderful prices. It's no wonder they are getting big, very quickly! My hat is tipped to the gentleman that issued this shoe, as no doubt, when walking down the street heads will turn and impressions will be left! If only more men had to courage to do this (wear bold colored shoes), as I know that they would like to!

Shoes Of The Week - Bespoke by D.W. Frommer II

Hand-sewn shoemaking may not be as prevalent in the public eye as it was 60-80 years ago (when shoemaking machinery was not as readily available), but the more time I spend in the shoe industry, the more I discover that it is still very much alive, only that it is on a much more private (and/or smaller) scale. And every time I hear of someone trying to find a course or apprenticeship in order to go learn, or someone that has simply taught themselves out of pure passion, I find myself smiling, knowing that people still care about quality shoes. And that, my friends, brings me to the subject at hand. While I have known about Mr. D.W. Frommer II for some time now (perusing the pages of Style Forum), it wasn't until I saw these pictures that I understood the magnitude of his making abilities. Having been a western boot maker for 40+ years (and being 66 years old), it was only until 5 years ago that he translated his knowledge in bootmaking and took a stab at shoemaking, in order to have something to enjoy during retirement. After 5 years (which is not long in this profession) you can see just far along he has come, especially with this beautiful balmoral oxford! For more information on Mr. D.W. Frommer II, you can email him or visit his website.

Email: frommer@bootmaker.com

Website: http://www.bootmaker.com/bespoke.htm

Today's Favorites - John Lobb Saddle Shoes

I never tire of seeing how many different ways a saddle shoe can be executed, especially when the color combinations are quite bold and unusual, such as this model by John Lobb. Buts what's funny about it is that I plucked this from a French website (Souliers), thinking that it was some bespoke (or at least MTO) model, as the title of the photo had the word 'customisee,' (apparently I am much worse at French than I thought) but then noticed the big, fat circled "R" on the inside which usually indicates a reject model. If these are both the case, it's such a shame...I wonder what the customer did not like about them? Nevertheless, I find them stunning and would gladly take them off John Lobb's hands......(it's nice to dream about being rich). In particular, what I find most appealing and unique is the perforations on the saddle. To me, they are simply and effortlessly amazing! Something that is so small in design yet so big in separating itself from the others....that's what good design is all about....!

Today's Favorites: Customer's Berluti Shoes

I never seem to tire of old Berluti shoes. Every time I have to shine them, even though they are not my favorite shoe, I seem to enjoy them more than anything else. Partly because the leather shines so easily and therefore makes my job a lot more pleasurable, but mainly because of the fact that even when they come to me all beat up and knackered beyond belief, after a bit of polish and elbow grease, they become like pieces of antiquity art. And while I am sure they look stunning when a customer just purchases them, I can't help but feel that their true beauty lies within a few years of them aging. The patina seems to become much more intricate and can even be intensified or taken down a notch with a bit of polish. Being the glutton that I am for unique coloring, I always do my best to bring out the undertones in the leather......which only makes beautiful shoes like this, look even better!