Life's Influence On Your Shoe Collection

It's truly amazing how you evolve as a person, not only with the way you think but with the way you behave, with the way that you dress, with the way that you do most things really. Thinking about what I wanted to write about this morning I was just think about me being in this place in time, and how different I am compared to 2 years ago, when I was in Italy, and even 5 years ago, when I was just getting out of university, in Seattle. It's amazing to think of the transformation of being since that time, particularly with how my shoe tastes have changed. I wish that I never had to get rid of any of the shoes that I have owned as of 7 years ago so that I could put them into a line, in order of purchase date. This would allow me to truly capture the details in how my thinking and tastes have changed, and ultimately --as I would regard-- evolved.

When I was younger, I used to just buy shoes because I liked the way they looked, that being, I liked their styling. I would buy them, and wear them proud. But when I moved to Europe, I started to noticed how I no longer liked my old shoes and wanted to have things that I actually loved the shape of, not just the styling of them. I wore things before that were way too elongated and pointy. And even though, that was the style and what was available back then in the States, it quickly became quite boring for me. It's a shame too, because I had so many nice things, that I wished I would have been able to keep. But I could just not stand them anymore. So, thinking about what I like now and what sits in my closet, I still have some classics that I have had since the very beginning, things that have managed to withstand the time of trends and passed through them, as well as things that I would have never like before but that I do now, such as my Gieves & Hawkes (by Edward Green) loafer  that I have Paulus Bolten give a patina to.

At the age that I am, I feel like I have gone through all of my changes and will no longer have such drastic alterations in my thought and dress sense. Granted, I will always go through phases where I will love loafers versus everything else or maybe only want to get full-brogues, but overall, I have come to know that a shoe's shape is what draws me to it. It's credibility in it's quality (does not have to be only the high end, but good enough to stand a couple of years in London weather) is what is going to sell me and it's styling is what's going to capture my attention. But you never know, if I one day move to Japan, and have another culture influence my very being, I just might start wearing only crazy colored shoes, and never go back from that! (not likely...)

All Shoes By: Gaziano & Girling, Top 2 Pictures Courtesy Of: Leffot

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Shoes Of The Week - Aubercy

To reiterate on my theory of brands that don't really get thought of when mentioning a certain aspect within the shoe realm (i.e. Bespoke shoes, Italian makers, American shoe companies etc.), one brand that comes to mind is Aubercy. They make some of the nicest shoes I have ever seen but are often masked by the thought of Corthay and Berluti when thinking of French shoemakers. It makes you think that it is companies like this that should be respected, because they simply must live off good word-of-mouth from their loyal clients, as you never see any advertising of them nor can hardly find them anywhere outside of their shops in Paris. But believe it or not, they date back to 1935, and have been going strong ever since. With the way the world is working right now, where men are again starting to appreciate good quality on their feet, it would not surprise me if Aubercy was to get bigger and become more in demand, but then again, I feel like many of the Parisian shoe lines actually enjoy being small and exclusive......who knows.

Spat Boots Available At: Leffot

On another note, I am off to finalize my 7th pair of shoes that I started a little while ago (which you can see here). I can't remember if I get internet access at the B&B that I stay at so if you do not hear from me until Monday of next week, this is why. By the way, for those that keep up, I have decided to dye them green and give it a go at my own little personal patina.

Until next time,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

READ MORE - Shoes Of The Week - Aubercy

Shoes Of The Week - Koji Suzuki

I never tire of looking at shoes made by Japanese bespoke shoemakers, such as the ones pictured here by Koji Suzuki. Somthing about their shoes, even though they may be classic styles, always seem to set themselves apart from their competitors. Take the monk strap above, for example. It's buckles are extremely far apart from eachother and also have concaved details on the leather strap, as opposed to a strap with straight edge lines. Little things like this, although minute, set the shoe apart from the next and create a feel of elegance, due to the addition of simple details that many shoe brands lack in utilizing.

But this also plays on one's culture, as I believe that Japanese society as a whole tends to appreciate and focus on the finer details in life that not only make things seem more simple, but also more elegant. A quick example, in my opinion, is the fact that they use chopsticks and sit on their knees with a staight back as opposed to eating with babaric forks/knives while sitting on modern funiture. And although (obviously) this is not the case for everyone in Japan, it's stuff like this that carries out into most things that they do and/or create. Looking at these shoes, you might just see what I am rambling on about. Simple, elegant, clean looking and most important, exquisite in every meaning of the word!

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More Japanese Shoes: Otsuka M-5

While this might be sad to hear (for it shows just how much of a freak that I am), I do not think that there are many things more exciting than discovering new brand of shoes which make exactly what I like. This is very much the case with Japanese shoe brand, Otsuka M-5. While it's very hard to gather information on this brand, as I do not speak nor read the Japanese language, it would be safe to infer that they seem to take the best from all worlds and put a Japanese twist on them. While I have read somewhere, of which I cannot remember, I believe that their shoes are made in sunny 'ol England. By the looks of their construction --which you can see on the website-- having a fiddleback and bevelled waist and being obviously goodyear welted, one would think that the factory they use, would be either Edward Green, Alfred Sargent or Crockett & Jones. It not really being that important which factory makes them, what is important is that they have done a good job at taking classic shoes and putting a fun twist on them.




















As you can see from this model above, that occupies the top row as well as the bottom left, it is a style that seems to have been inspired by French shoemakers, particularly Pierre Corthay, as it seems to be something that he has done in the past or at least something similar. And while that might seem pretentious of me to say, as I believe that Japanese designers/shoemakers have proved time again that they make unique pieces that separate them from everyone else, it is not a bad thing, in fact, to have inspiration and utilize it to create something similar. Not being the biggest fan of derbies in general, I think that what they have done to the facing of these shoes, make them that much more appealing, especially the canvas model above, right. And while I loving see shoes like this, it always disappoints me that in order to ever see them in person, I either have to purchase them or take a trip to Tokyo. And while a trip to Tokyo is something that I really want to do, I would very much like this to not be my only option in seeing them in the flesh.

Now, we look at the pictures of above and you see the spectators that remind me of some Edward Green's and then the single monk straps with the hand braided stitch, that might look like something Moreschi would conjure up. And it's wonderful. This brand, does it all!! They don't have just one way about them, they have all the ways of the world, making each one with their own Japanese twist. This is the way that I think that shoes should brands should be. But then again, there would be no distinction between brands if they all did everything. So it's refreshing to see that at least it is offered somewhere. A kind of one-stop-shop brand. I could not imagine going to the store where they sell these, it would literally break my wallet, in half! Well, if anyone has any other information they would like to share on this brand, please do not hesitate to leave it in the comment section, as I am sure that there will be many readers who may wish to know more....

READ MORE - More Japanese Shoes: Otsuka M-5

Today's Favorites - Red Suede Edward Greens

It's not very often that you see red suede shoes, particularly coming from a company rooted in England. It's even far less common that you would see someone wearing these down the street. Yet that would be very cool. Apparently these were an MTO order, for a customer at Leffot (of which the pictures are courtesy of). When you think about it this way, there existence under the name Edward Green makes more sense, as I don't believe that they would ever produce something for their ready-to-wear lines. But then this brings up the age old question: with all of the beautiful shoes being sold each day in the world, why is it that I never see anyone wearing them? Do people only keep their cool shoes for special events? For parties? What? I just don't get it. It's not like I wear my red shoes with white piping everyday, but they definitely get a some wears throughout the year. But rarely do I see something exciting, such as these, gracing the feet of some well-dressed gentleman. It's never too late.....wear your exciting shoes proudly!

READ MORE - Today's Favorites - Red Suede Edward Greens

Today's Favorites - Louis Vuitton Monk Straps

While I cannot say that I am a big fan of mega-fashion brand, Louis Vuitton, I can say that every now and then, they do make a pretty decent shoe. This model here represents just that, for me, as well as a very intriguing take on the monk strap. While I myself, like to keep things relatively classic in my own designs, I do find it quite interesting to see what fashion designers can come up with, when it comes to tweaking an existing idea. Sometimes, it's flat out shit, and other times, it's quite cool. And while one might not fancy these women's belt like straps, I don't think that anyone can argue that the shoe below, sans straps, is a lovely model nonetheless! While black dress shoes have since grown on me, due to my time in England, and its lovely weather, I must say that for my prior tastes, this would have been an acceptable black shoe. It's something that has a bit of flair, but also a very classic undertone. Not too pointy, not too round, almost having a Riccardo Bestetti type toe, it's win-win for me!

Picture Courtesy Of: The Style Buff

READ MORE - Today's Favorites - Louis Vuitton Monk Straps

Today's Favorites - Carmina

There is a sleeping giant in the shoe industry that not many people realize yet is soon going to be a major player, and that giant is Spain. For many years, Spain has been a producer of high quality shoes coming from several factories such as Carmina (which is shown here) and Magnanni, not to mention others that are less known. But only until recently, I believe, have people started to catch on, as the moniker "Made In Italy" starts to slowly fade. As I have said before, a good shoe can be made anywhere. Sure, that country has to have the right ingredients, such as the proper machinery, but mainly there just has to be passion, patience and attention to detail. And Carmina, has done an amazing job of doing just that, as you can very well see in these pictures. These chukka, just might be among the coolest boots that I have ever seen. Not only do they have a crepe sole, that is amazing for walking, but with that, they have managed to maintain their dressiness and shape. And to top it all off, what a great color for suede: olive green! I continue to be amazed with where the shoe industry is going (in terms of styling), and for me it brings great pleasure to see shoes like this, that are classic, but have that little bit of edge...

Pictures Courtesy Of: Rugged Old Salt
Shoes: All MTO, available through The Armoury

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The eBay Experience

I have never been someone who has had a whole lot of patience, unfortunate as that may be. This downfall has prohibited me from taking part in many things...like learning how to actually hit the ball in golf, reading a book past the first 10 pages (it better grab me), and last but not least, taking advantage of the wonderful creation called eBay. Some things are obviously more important than others, in terms of helping my intelligence (like the reading bit, that would help me write and speak better) but none could have probably saved me more money than, being a smart eBay shopper could have. I mean, I have wasted tons of money in my life from things that I bought, and then never wore or wore just once or twice and then gave away. It hurts to think of that sunk cost that I cannot regain.....But let's now dwell and move back on to the subject.....I can't even begin to imagine how many amazing products have been sold on eBay for next to nothing: millions. And to think that I have missed out on all of them! But, apparently I have reader that has done the opposite of myself and has completely taken advantage of this brilliant creation and by doing so, has acquired around 75 of his 150 pairs of shoes. (Makes me look like a chump!) And by doing this, not only has he been able to purchase very nice, high-end shoes, but has also probably been able to save tens of thousands of dollars, which I am sure has helped him buy more clothing! :-)

What's most amazing about this, is the eclectic array of shoes that my reader now owns. I mean, it ranges from those Florsheim looking cream slip-ons (which for me don't match the vibe of the others) to the most amazing suede Lobbs. But that's what happens when you have the ability to get a shoe for $20-$30. At that price, you just might buy anything. It's like when I used to work in retail, made loads of money for a 22 year-old, and had a discount. I frickin' bought everything, even things that I hated after one wear. It was stupid....but that's what happens when things are too cheap to pass up, which is why eBay is brilliant. Someone literally came up with the idea to have people pretty much swap crap that they don't want and then the company makes loads of money from fee's. Simply amazing! And while it sounds like the owners of eBay are having all of the fun, its actually people like my reader who (if they are diligent enough) are able to profit off of this concept and build a wardrobe (or whatever product they are after) on basement bargains!

Some of the shoes that he has gotten are simply beautiful. The suede Lobbs (above) are most likely my favorite, just because I love the uniqueness of the design, so French, yet so elegant! Next up, must be the Berluti wholecuts in a pebble grain. It's funny because I have never seen that before, nor have I even thought of it, but to me, it looks brilliant. It's the only way to tone down the dressiness of the whole cut, and make it a bit more casual. Great idea! And last, but certainly not least, are those yellowish/tan Bontoni wholecuts with brogueing. Those are simply beautiful! And for those 3 shoes, that probably retail upwards of about $4000, it would not surprise me if he got them for about 1/4 of that price. How can you beat that? You can't really and that's why the eBay experience is so genius. I tip my hat to the owners and to those (such as this reader who owns all of these amazing shoes) whom have actually been patient enough to take advantage of the sheer brilliance in trading crap for bottom dollar prices!

READ MORE - The eBay Experience