Shoes Of The Week - Aubercy

To reiterate on my theory of brands that don't really get thought of when mentioning a certain aspect within the shoe realm (i.e. Bespoke shoes, Italian makers, American shoe companies etc.), one brand that comes to mind is Aubercy. They make some of the nicest shoes I have ever seen but are often masked by the thought of Corthay and Berluti when thinking of French shoemakers. It makes you think that it is companies like this that should be respected, because they simply must live off good word-of-mouth from their loyal clients, as you never see any advertising of them nor can hardly find them anywhere outside of their shops in Paris. But believe it or not, they date back to 1935, and have been going strong ever since. With the way the world is working right now, where men are again starting to appreciate good quality on their feet, it would not surprise me if Aubercy was to get bigger and become more in demand, but then again, I feel like many of the Parisian shoe lines actually enjoy being small and exclusive......who knows.

Spat Boots Available At: Leffot

On another note, I am off to finalize my 7th pair of shoes that I started a little while ago (which you can see here). I can't remember if I get internet access at the B&B that I stay at so if you do not hear from me until Monday of next week, this is why. By the way, for those that keep up, I have decided to dye them green and give it a go at my own little personal patina.

Until next time,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

READ MORE - Shoes Of The Week - Aubercy

Shoes Of The Week - Koji Suzuki

I never tire of looking at shoes made by Japanese bespoke shoemakers, such as the ones pictured here by Koji Suzuki. Somthing about their shoes, even though they may be classic styles, always seem to set themselves apart from their competitors. Take the monk strap above, for example. It's buckles are extremely far apart from eachother and also have concaved details on the leather strap, as opposed to a strap with straight edge lines. Little things like this, although minute, set the shoe apart from the next and create a feel of elegance, due to the addition of simple details that many shoe brands lack in utilizing.

But this also plays on one's culture, as I believe that Japanese society as a whole tends to appreciate and focus on the finer details in life that not only make things seem more simple, but also more elegant. A quick example, in my opinion, is the fact that they use chopsticks and sit on their knees with a staight back as opposed to eating with babaric forks/knives while sitting on modern funiture. And although (obviously) this is not the case for everyone in Japan, it's stuff like this that carries out into most things that they do and/or create. Looking at these shoes, you might just see what I am rambling on about. Simple, elegant, clean looking and most important, exquisite in every meaning of the word!

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Shoes -- Part 2: Style Names & Terminology -- Boots

As you many very well know, boots come in all shapes, sizes and styles. And even today they are ever-evolving, as I shall share an example (of something new and unique) with you either tomorrow or for my shoes of the week post that I usually do on Fridays. I was never a huge boot fan until I saw my first spat boot. After that, it was pure love. Now, I want every kind of style of boot in every colorway. I even had 3 of them made up for my first collection. Quite a bit for an introduction to the world. But as the days go on, I feel that boots are becoming increasing sought after, as the homogeneity of low-cut shoes (aka normal shoes) begins to bore many individuals. They therefore look to something else. And that something else is very likely to be a boot. 

Pictured Above & Below, Left: My own Gaziano & Girling 'Wigmore'

Balmoral Boots

Gaziano & Girling

Alfred Sargent

Crockett & Jones

Septieme Largeur

Balmoral boots are are definitely among my top favorites of all the boot options. Let's call them my adopted favorite. Adopted because the spat boot is my true favorite but considering the fact that they are very very hard to come by and will most likely run you a minimum of $1000, I have to say that for practical sake, the balmoral boot is what I prefer. What's nice about them is the fact that they are simply a dress boot. A boot that you can wear as if it was a shoe, i.e. with your suits. Not too many other boots can do that, because at first site you can easily tell that they are a boot. But with a balmoral boot, it looks like a shoe when your trousers are covering it. I feel that for this very reason, they have become increasingly popular in recent times, as people may be bored of wearing traditional shoes and are therefore opting for something a little different, and this being the perfect example.

Derby Boots

I can't say that this is the exact proper name for them, but this is what I like to call them. They are really just like a balmoral except the fact that they have open lacing. Just as beautiful too, as they allow for a more casual look. This pair above, by Edward Green is probably the nicest derby boot I have ever seen and I could definitely see myself in this everyday, paired with my jeans. Then again, I could easily see myself in all of the boots that I am putting here, especially since I come to think about it, I really don't own a pair of derby boots. Boots, in general, have definitely been something that I did not put much effort into getting, in the past. But now that I have amassed a huge collection of laced shoes, I think that I need build up my loafer and boot game.

Helm

Gaziano & Girling

Spat Boots

Jan Kielman

As I have mentioned a million times before, I believe that men dressed at their best during the Edwardian and Victorian eras. Clothing seemed to be appreciated so much more and elegance was something to uphold. And during those times, many men wore high cut boots, particularly spat and balmoral boots. I don't know why makers were inclined to make them then, but nowadays they are virtually unheard of in a ready-to-wear option. Maybe its because, today, men walk harder and are more aggressive in their nature, which makers feel that the buttons will therefore break too easily. This will then cause headaches for the customer with the broken buttons and in turn will lead to the manufacturers having to deal with those broken buttons. Whatever the case, it sure is sad that they are not more readily available.

Anthony Delos - Spat cover + shoe

Perfetto

Chukka Boots

Corthay; Picture via Leffot

Chukka boots are among the most versatile shoes in the shoe industry. If done right a chukka boot, such as the one picture above, can transition between jeans and suits within the same wear. The cleanliness of them, being that they tend to be stitch free on the vamp and toe area, allows for them to dressed up. But at the same time, the fact that they still are a boot gives it that automatic jean and casual appeal. Out of all of the shoes that I own, I am almost without a doubt that aside from my commuter shoe (which does not count), I have worn my chukkas more than anything. You just can't beat their versatility!


Whole Cut Boots

Septieme Largeur

This is the second time that I have seen this done before. The first time was by Japanese bespoke shoemaker, Imai Hiroki (pictured below). It's like an oxford version of a chukka boot. It's quite strange to see in picture, but they look really nice in person, as I was able to check out the last time that I was in Paris at the SL shop. My only concern with them is the ankle area and how it will feel with that whole piece of leather. But then again, it would most likely not be designed and selling if it was not comfortably wearable. They are pretty cool nonetheless. Being a whole cut fan weather it a laced shoe, loafer or boot, means that I have to like this one too! I just need to get my hands on a pair!

Septieme Largeur

Imai Hiroki

Septieme Largeur

Chelsea Boots

Ahh, the chelsea boot. Probably my least favorite boot, up until recently, which as I stated above will share with you on Friday. I don't know why I have never really been the biggest fan of them. I guess it's because I really see that gore as being too casual to be "nice." Don't get me wrong, a good chelsea boot is an amazing casual shoe, but it's tough to make them dressy. This Koji Suzuki model above is probably the nicest that I have ever seen. He seemed to make all of the proportions in just the right way, allowing for a sleek and dressy look. It may seem trivial, but I believe that for a chelsea boot, getting these proportions down right is much harder than it seems, at least to make the boot on the dressy side. Beatle boots are another form of chelsea boots except that they are cut much more lower. It became a style that was popularized by the rock group, The Beatles in the 1960's. They can also have a zipped side, but they are usually regarded to be a descendant of the chelsea boot. Beatle boot picture below by Corthay.

Jodhpur Boots

Rider Boot Co.

Originally used as a riding boot, the jodhpur boot has now been transformed to be one the coolest jeans boots ever. Not really that dressy due to the straps, I find them to be perfect as a great jean boot. There is something that is rugged and manly about them, even though they look nice and elegant. Another boot that I do not own, but will definitely be adding to the collection!

Barker Black

John Lobb via Leather Soul

READ MORE - Shoes -- Part 2: Style Names & Terminology -- Boots

Off To Budapest

Just wanted to let you all know that I am off to Budapest tomorrow on a short 4 day holiday. I cannot guarantee anything but I will do my best to get a post or two out. You can be sure that I will be visiting the legendary Laszlo Vass store, with the hopes to snap some pictures and put up a post for all of you.

I hope that everyone enjoys their weekend!!

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Boots By: Laszlo Vass

READ MORE - Off To Budapest

The Perfect Winter Boot

Septieme Largeur

A few weeks ago, I did a post about the 5 Essential Shoes for Winter and listed that a heavy brogue boot would definitely be one of those shoes to get you through these cold months. What I did not realize then and just recently stumbled upon was the fact that there is another boot, not too far off from this, which I believe could be the ONE shoe (boot) that anyone would ever need for the winter season. That boot being, a light brogue boot with a leather sole, preferably as an oxford as seen here by Septieme Largeur. The reason that I did not think of this, is because you rarely see them. But after getting a pair and thinking about it, it makes perfect sense. Not only does it look good casually but can also be paired with the thicker suits that one tends to wear during the colder months.

As you can see, the features of the boot give it everything it needs to be as a dress shoe: slim sole, sleek last shape, normal heel height etc. The only thing that makes it casual would be the metal, ring eyelets (the bottom ones, as the trouser should always cover the top ones). But they are so nondescript that they create the perfect balance of being not too casual for pairing with suits, but just casual enough to make these boots look real good with a nice pair of jeans. The design, quite admirable, is something that I would have never thought of. And that's why I did not mind actually getting a pair, knowing that I would not put something like this into my first collection, and will now have to think about whether or not I will ever add it at all, for fear of having to give these away!

Edward Green (ladies) -- Leffot

Laszlo Vass

Rider Boot Co.

Perfetto

After wearing them a couple of times and thinking about their versatility, I realized that this very well could be my go-to winter shoe. It's dark, elegant but casual and can be paired with the majority of outfits that one could create, with the exception of fancy dress. That being, I figured that it's the perfect winter boot. Now as a second choice, as the oxford version is hard to find, I would have to say that the derby brogue boot is a good contender. I would not pair it with a suit but it makes a darn fine shoe for jeans and the likes of winter-type trousers such as moleskins and corduroys, just the things that I gravitate towards (as I am sure that you do too) once that weather gets so cold that I can feel it in my bones. And after re-evaluating my shoe collection, I see that oxford shoes are something that I do not really need to add any more of, and boots are something that I have far too little of. Good thing there will be 3 different boots in my first collection. I won't mind nicking a couple of pairs....

Alden

Edward Green -- Photo courtesy of Leffot

READ MORE - The Perfect Winter Boot

Today's Favorites - Carmina Balmoral Boot

I have never actually had the pleasure of holding a pair of Carmina shoes in my hands, but I have always appreciated what I have seen in pictures and all of the nice things that most people have to say about them. While they tend to not stray too far outside of classic styles, I did notice this pair on Ethan Desu's blog a little while ago and was quite taken aback by the uniqueness of them. There was no description of what they were for, but I could only imagine that they must have been an MTO, as this is not a combination that you see often, especially in RTW circulation. And even though it did not make me say 'WOW' for some unknown reason, I feel that I would love to have them and would gravitate towards them more than I think. Something about them really captures me, but in a way that is almost indescribable. The seem to have these little subtle qualities that make them really stand apart, but only after 3 or 4 glances do you notice them. I feel that they come up higher on your leg than your average pair, the stitching along the facing is not quite straight but not quite as curved either when it comes to the edge of the vamp/quarter, and that the mouth of the boot (above ankle) is a lot smaller than most openings. And all of these details make me think that this is truly inspired by what they used to wear in the late 19th, early 20th centuries.... I applaud the person that designed them...Well done!

READ MORE - Today's Favorites - Carmina Balmoral Boot

Shoes Of The Week - Alfred Sargent Special Make Up

Following a survey on Style Forum, online shoe store 'A Fine Pair of Shoes' created (based on popular vote & in conjunction with Alfred Sargent) what was considered to be the perfect brogue boot. While I can't say that I agree that this model is the 'perfect' brogue boot, I can say that I do like them very much. Probably the thing that I like most (outside of my obvious two-tone obsession) is the brogue design that leads from the bottom part of the facing/quarter all the way to the back end of the shaft bit. While this boot would be a great option come Spring/Summer, I just can't say that it's perfect for the fact that it cannot be worn during the cold months, for fear of thrashing that lovely light suede during a wet day. Nevertheless, it's a beautiful model that I am sure will become a great seller. If you are interested in this boot, the nice gentleman at AFPS informed me that they are currently available via Special Order at info@afinepairofshoes.co.uk and are going for £420.

I will try and post again sometime this weekend, but if I do not get a chance, there might be a little while before you here from me as I am taking a trip back to Spain in order to sort out some of my other prototypes!

I hope that everyone has a fantastic weekend.

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

READ MORE - Shoes Of The Week - Alfred Sargent Special Make Up

What I Am Wearing

There is nothing like a nice brogue. A good one can literally get you through almost anything. And while mine is slightly on the more casual side, due to it being a boot and having those metal eyelets, it still does a good job of appeasing my outfits ranging from casual to smart (dress casual). However, I would not pair these with a suit, at least not 95% of them. A heavy flannel just might go nice with these, but that would vary upon the cloth, the cut and the eye of the beholder. Nevertheless, being The Shoe Snob, I am ashamed to admit that this is my only real brogue shoe (being close to a full). While I have others that are half or quarter brogues, I don't even truly have a real full-brogue in any of the standard colors (brown, black, tan or burgundy - just my one in green, but that doesn't count). Funny enough its my self-proclaimed most versatile shoe in the world, yet there isn't one in my closet. I guess that when I was making shoes, I got too caught up in trying to do things that were unique, so much so that I pretty much ruled out making at least one basic. Oh well, soon enough I will have one in each color!

Shoes: Septieme Largeur
Jacket: Pete Werth
Trousers: H&M
Jumper: Banana Republic
Shirt: Primark
Knit Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

READ MORE - What I Am Wearing

Balmoral Boot Porn

I was never quite the biggest fan of pairing black with a burgundy and/or an oxblood/merlot type of color, but I must admit that the more that I studied this prototype of mine (for wear-testing), the more that the combination of colors grew on me. Having friends and colleagues try it on, wearing jeans, suits, dress casual trousers etc., the more that I felt that these colors actually go quite nice together. It never presented itself as being too dressy for one thing, yet too casual for another. Meaning, that when my colleague tried it on with his navy suit, I felt that it complemented the outfit quite well and when tried on underneath a pair of jeans, it happened to smarten up the outfit. That being, while it's contrast is subtle and not in the least ostentatious, it still provides a great deal of pleasure to the eye, overcoming the monotony of two colors too close in tone. I am still not sure if this will be a colorway that I offer for my first collection, but nevertheless, I am now pleased to have at least had it made up, which gave me the chance to absorb its subtle yet elegant contrast....

READ MORE - Balmoral Boot Porn