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Shoes Of The Week - Aubercy

To reiterate on my theory of brands that don't really get thought of when mentioning a certain aspect within the shoe realm (i.e. Bespoke shoes, Italian makers, American shoe companies etc.), one brand that comes to mind is Aubercy. They make some of the nicest shoes I have ever seen but are often masked by the thought of Corthay and Berluti when thinking of French shoemakers. It makes you think that it is companies like this that should be respected, because they simply must live off good word-of-mouth from their loyal clients, as you never see any advertising of them nor can hardly find them anywhere outside of their shops in Paris. But believe it or not, they date back to 1935, and have been going strong ever since. With the way the world is working right now, where men are again starting to appreciate good quality on their feet, it would not surprise me if Aubercy was to get bigger and become more in demand, but then again, I feel like many of the Parisian shoe lines actually enjoy being small and exclusive......who knows.

Spat Boots Available At: Leffot

On another note, I am off to finalize my 7th pair of shoes that I started a little while ago (which you can see here). I can't remember if I get internet access at the B&B that I stay at so if you do not hear from me until Monday of next week, this is why. By the way, for those that keep up, I have decided to dye them green and give it a go at my own little personal patina.

Until next time,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Shoe Of The Week - Maftei

As the world progresses, it becomes harder and harder to say that one thing, whether it be a product or service, is best found here or there. This used to be the case many years ago, but as people become more and more curious about the arts and crafts that were once famous in a certain area, they begin to take it upon themselves to become just as good. Some even go as far as becoming better. So, for me it's very nice to discover shoemakers that come from areas that one not might suspect would be a place that offers bespoke shoes at a high caliber. While this might still be the case in some countries, it is definitely not in Austria, as this shoe by Maftei looks just as good as any prominent maker in the industry. Not only does the shoe look good in a construction aspect, but the style is among my current favorites, pairing two colors that I love together and doing it in a very unique and beautiful way. Have a look through his site and maybe you too will find something that strikes your fancy and presents itself as unique and individual.

Shoes Of The Week - Perfetto

Hands down, these are among the coolest boots/shoes that I have ever seen. Every single detail is bang-on, the styles are amazing and the mixtures of fabric with leather are extremely well-executed. The more that I see shoes that are either designed, or made by Japanese people, the more I feel that the Japanese are surely becoming the masters of shoes. I had never heard of this brand, Perfetto, but upon stumbling across them, I fell in love instantly. And what shoe love wouldn't? After researching a little, it seems that they were an up-and-comer at the last Pitti Uomo, which means that with cool shoes like this, we can expect to hopefully see much more of them as they get purchased by stores around the world. Granted many stores buy rubbish shoes, so maybe we won't, but nonetheless I believe that they will be successful. And believe it or not, this model above, is definitely an example of something that I would still buy, even when I have my own line.....

On that note, let me tell you that I will be getting 8 of my 13 samples on Monday, so be on the look out for a picture or two, for sneak-previews sake!

Majority of Pictures Courtesy Of: The Suitorial

Shoes Of The Week - Saint Crispins

When I first saw this pair in one single color (posted here) I fell in love with them. But when I saw this pair, by Saint Crispins, in a multiple leather type two-tone, I was absolutely blown away. Time and time again, they make the exact thing that I feel needs to be more present in the shoe industry and it makes me smile to know that other makers/designers appear to be thinking the same thing. So, it comes as no surprise that this company continues to grow, having their shoes being carried at more and more stores around the world, all while they carry a price tag of around $2000. This particular shoe just might be one of my favorite models in circulation at the moment. Not only does it remind of what they used to wear back in the early 20th century, but represents shoes as a piece of art, because looking at this, I would not know whether to wear it or place it on my mantelpiece. Just joking...I would definitely rock them!

Pictures Courtesy Of: Leather Soul

What I Am Wearing - Spectators

It's not very often that I break out my pair of 1920's Chicago gangster-style spectators, but I always love the reactions that I get when I do. It's funny, because I never thought of them as "gangster-style" but this is a frequent comment that I receive amongst my colleagues here in London. I always looked at them as a very dandy-ish style shoe that elegant gentleman wore in the southern states of America when they wanted to dress up for festive garden parties or the likes of that. And while I am sure that their history goes back in a much more extensive way than that, it's just something that is embedded in my mind, being American and all. But now that I am one of the millions of viewers that watches the magnificent series, Boardwalk Empire, I can understand why they may receive this 'gangster' moniker. Nevertheless, there was a period when Church's were doing these in all types of color options (even white with yellow) and while I wanted to get one of each, I decided that I would just go with the most classic of them, as pictured here.

Shoes: Church's
Suit: MTM Gieves & Hawkes
Shirt: Primark
Tie: XMI Platinum
Socks: Mes Chaussettes Rouges

Today's Favorites - Lino Ieluzzi's Shoes

For those that don't know who Lino Ieluzzi is, he is the owner of the famous shop in Milan, called Al Balzar, as well as one of the more popular faces seen on The Sartorialist. I would have never thought to do a quick post on Mr. Ieluzzi, but at the request of a reader, I figured that I would give my two cents on his infamous contrasted cap-toe monk straps that he is known for wearing. What I can say, is that I always appreciate someone who wears something that is unique and differentiates them from the rest. But, as far as these colors go, I would probably would have chosen them in other combinations. Not to say that these two colors don't go well together, but just to say that they are definitely not my favorite. I do like them, however, and more so, appreciate Mr. Ieluzzi's style in general, as I believe that he has a way about him that could be described as bravado, but in a good way. So what I am getting at, is that I do give my thumbs up on these shoes, but would want them in a different color combination. Your thoughts??

J.Fitzpatrick & Gaziano & Girling Collaboration

I don't know how many of you remember, but before I ever went to have my collection made up in Spain, I went to Tony Gaziano to learn how to make a pattern. He spent the day showing me using one of my very own designs. At first I thought that I would try and take another skill on board, but after seeing how intricate it can be and understanding that it would just add a few more years onto realizing my goals, I decided that I would leave it at that and maybe come to it at another point in life. But, that day was very integral to my knowledge in understanding why a pattern (and how it fits on the last) is so important. I realize that it is not just a shape that makes the shoe, but how the design (pattern) fits on that shape. How it compliments the curvature of the last. This is something that I am now struggling with in my own prototypes. Getting the pattern to fit the last, properly, is no easy feat, especially on your first round of making them. They usually need adjustments.

Needless to say, this is the final result of my design. You may say, 'oh this is nothing unique,' but if you look carefully, I have extended the adelaide to follow the top line of the shoe, giving it sort of a 'wing-like' characteristic. As well as that, I have minimized the heel counter. I did that because I wanted to emphasize the flannel that I used, so that it would be the main focus of the shoe. And even though some might find these characteristics to be unpractical, I find them to be the refreshing difference to everything else that already exists.

As far as the construction of the shoe goes, allow me to explain. So after Tony and I (really just Tony) completed the pattern, we had one of the closers that he uses sew all of the pieces together. This proved to be a difficult request due to the nature of the fabric. Yet, after a struggle, he still managed to do so and ended doing a very good job on such a difficult piece. The intention was then for me to make the shoes myself, but after a couple of complications, including lack of time and the fragility of the upper, we decided to just have it made in the G&G factory on the DG70 last. And as a surprise, they ended up constructing it with the Deco standard of construction and finish, to give it more of that 'handmade' feel. So that being, the concoction that you see presented here is designed by myself conceptually (and on paper), with the pattern done by Mr. Tony Gaziano, and then made up by the wonderful workers at Gaziano & Girling. The only downfall to all of this, is that this shoe will unfortunately be a one-off, as the flannel used is far to delicate and difficult to put into mass production. But, the design will be something that I incorporate into my first collection.

(Just to reiterate for clarification, this shoe will not be available by either side, and in the future, the design will be made available by me, not G&G)

Bespoke Making On A Whole Other Level

Most of the time, people buy bespoke shoes because they have feet that are hard to fit and therefore need a last to be made up to accommodate such feet. But every now and then, you get a gentleman who goes for bespoke simply for the fact that he wants something that no one else is ever going to have. This shoe presented here, represents just that, and even more. I found this on Saion's site and because it is in Japanese I unfortunately cannot understand one single thing, but looking at the pictures, I am almost positive that the stitching of the upper was done by hand, which is simply frickin' amazing!! Imagine how long that would take? AGES!

I look at this and even though I would probably not wear it simply for the fact of the decoration on the strap, I can't help but like and appreciate it. I only wish that there was a side view to look at, in order to get more of an appreciation for the entire shoe, as the top view only gives you so much. But I must say, that this is shoemaking purely at it's finest. The upper is unique, the stitching is hand-done (and contrasted), the design is out of the ordinary (the counter's are quite different) and the color combination is mind-blowing!! Overall, I give this a 10, not for the fact that it's the coolest shoe ever, but simply for the fact that it breaks all of the norms and enters the realm of art for the sake of making something that is beautiful and not necessarily practical....

What I Am Wearing

The more and more that you see my personal collection, the more that you will realize that I love to gravitate towards two-toned shoes. This is actually a pair, despite being colors that I don't particularly think go that well together, is one of my favorite models. The only shame is, the more that I spend wearing bespoke shoes and shoes that come in narrow width, the more that I feel that many of the shoes that I bought in America, are too big. In the sense that being the fool that I can be, I would just always buy US 8D, thinking that they would be fine. But like shoes do, some fit bigger than others, and if you look closely you will notice that the sides of these are gaping, indicating that there is too much space. Needless to say, after wearing these for the first time in about a year or two, I came to the conclusion that I am going to sell them, as I no longer need them and need to free up space in my miniature European closet. So after I clean them up a bit, I will be putting them up for sale! Be on the look out if you fancy them.

Shoes: Magnanni
Suit: Gieves & Hawkes
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

Shoes Of The Week - Mannina

There is something about wholecut loafers that I just absolutely love. The fact that they seem to derive from a Prince Albert shoe but usually will have a normal sole on them and are intended for actual wear as opposed to prancing around your big mansion, is quite appealing to me. And then, there are so many things that you can do to them to give them a little bit of character, like add a medallion, some tassels or some thick and contrasting piping around the edges etc. These ones here, by Mannina, seem to have added all of those little extras that I just listed and what came out, to me, is beautiful loafer that (if not for the color) could get an amazing amount of wear. Shame that light suede is such a delicate material, something that can only be worn confidently in few countries (like Italy) without fear of ridicule or the chance of ruining them. But imagine these in a nice snuff suede or something a bit darker, that would be a shoe to have, cherish and rock your socks in....

Shoes Of The Week - Alfred Sargent Special Make Up

Following a survey on Style Forum, online shoe store 'A Fine Pair of Shoes' created (based on popular vote & in conjunction with Alfred Sargent) what was considered to be the perfect brogue boot. While I can't say that I agree that this model is the 'perfect' brogue boot, I can say that I do like them very much. Probably the thing that I like most (outside of my obvious two-tone obsession) is the brogue design that leads from the bottom part of the facing/quarter all the way to the back end of the shaft bit. While this boot would be a great option come Spring/Summer, I just can't say that it's perfect for the fact that it cannot be worn during the cold months, for fear of thrashing that lovely light suede during a wet day. Nevertheless, it's a beautiful model that I am sure will become a great seller. If you are interested in this boot, the nice gentleman at AFPS informed me that they are currently available via Special Order at info@afinepairofshoes.co.uk and are going for £420.

I will try and post again sometime this weekend, but if I do not get a chance, there might be a little while before you here from me as I am taking a trip back to Spain in order to sort out some of my other prototypes!

I hope that everyone has a fantastic weekend.

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Marc Guyot: Colors, Colors, Colors!!!

If there is one thing that I like about Marc Guyot, it's the fact that he is one guy who is certainly not afraid of a bit of color. Whether or not you would fancy the outfit he wears or the shoes that he makes, you have to respect him for having the courage to be different. While certain things may be considered ostentatious, I find them pleasingly different, especially in a world that sometimes feels overly monotonous. This new range of shoes that he has, gives a whole new meaning to the idea of colored shoes, where not only are there bold colors being used, but bold colors being combined! While this is certainly not the first time that a shoe designer has done this, I must say that some of the combinations caught me by surprise. They did so by making me realize that certain colors that I would never think to wear, nor combine, actually look amazing well! What I am referring to is the split-toe derby in orangy-brown/puke green. Now, in no way is that description an attempt at insult (what other green would it be), but an actual realization of prejudices (orange colored leather - never fancied that before?) being overturn by the power of observation through skilled design by Mr. Guyot himself! Nevertheless, I tip my hat to Mr. Guyot for being a man that does what he likes, and not necessarily what everyone else likes!

Shoe Pictures Courtesy Of: Parisian Gentleman
Marc Guyot Photo Courtesy Of: The Dandy Portraits

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