Shoes Of The Week - Alden Collaborations

While I have lots to write about for my trip to Paris, it needs to be organized and the posts are going to be longer ones, so bear with me on these things. For the meantime, I wanted to talk about Alden and how they seem to be such busy bees with their collaborations with other brands. As I have stated in many earlier posts, I believe that this idea of collaborating is the way of the future in the shoe industry. While it has always been about, it seems that it has really taken off, since 2010. Obviously, as most of the world went into recession a few years back, companies had to start thinking about alternative channels of distribution, and it seemed that collaboration gave the best of both worlds, for all parties involved. It gave the designers/shoe brands something new to create and an alternative way of making money, it gave the collaborating brand something different from their usual, and maybe stale collection and all-in-all the collaboration gave the customer another option, in case they were not liking anything at that present moment. That being, I have thoroughly enjoyed all of the new saddle shoe models that Alden has been producing for the likes of Unionmade (pictured above & below) as well as Blackbird (very bottom), which is a very popular boutique located in the neighborhood where I grew up, Ballard, Wa. And while I feel that Alden has done a good job of going relatively outside of the box with the likes of these color combo's, I am hoping that the next time I see this shoe, it might be in green or red or some other non-traditional color. We shall see...

Enjoy your Friday and check back soon for my trip to Paris posts....

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

READ MORE - Shoes Of The Week - Alden Collaborations

Shoes Of The Week - Random Mark McNairy's

I really love what Mark McNairy has done in the shoe industry. In what used to be a relatively dull, no-color ridden market, Mark McNairy decided to do something about it and launched his line, emphasizing this prep-chic style (loafers, heavy brogues and buck's) that incorporated a lot of color, particularly in the soles. And since then, he has seemed to grow at an exponential rate. And that is simply great! When coming out with something so bold, as this concept is, one would think that it is either going to make it, or break it. Luckily he made it, even with shoes as daring and colorful as a crayola box.

As I put together my first collection, I am growing insecure (even though I shouldn't) about offering classic dress shoes with colorful options (such as a full-brogue in navy or a forest green whole-cut). When you think about starting a line, you have to know that even though you may want to make all of the craziest options that you always dreamed of owning, you have to also realize that you need to make things that will sell, so that you can stay in business. This is what I appreciate about people like Mark McNairy and Mr. Hare. They both created something that they felt was missing, hit it dead on and are now growing at exponential rates. I just hope that my first collection will have this kind of impact, as I believe that I have been studying a long time, what is lacking in the current marketplace....

Some pictures provide by: The Shoe Buff

READ MORE - Shoes Of The Week - Random Mark McNairy's

More Japanese Shoes: Otsuka M-5

While this might be sad to hear (for it shows just how much of a freak that I am), I do not think that there are many things more exciting than discovering new brand of shoes which make exactly what I like. This is very much the case with Japanese shoe brand, Otsuka M-5. While it's very hard to gather information on this brand, as I do not speak nor read the Japanese language, it would be safe to infer that they seem to take the best from all worlds and put a Japanese twist on them. While I have read somewhere, of which I cannot remember, I believe that their shoes are made in sunny 'ol England. By the looks of their construction --which you can see on the website-- having a fiddleback and bevelled waist and being obviously goodyear welted, one would think that the factory they use, would be either Edward Green, Alfred Sargent or Crockett & Jones. It not really being that important which factory makes them, what is important is that they have done a good job at taking classic shoes and putting a fun twist on them.




















As you can see from this model above, that occupies the top row as well as the bottom left, it is a style that seems to have been inspired by French shoemakers, particularly Pierre Corthay, as it seems to be something that he has done in the past or at least something similar. And while that might seem pretentious of me to say, as I believe that Japanese designers/shoemakers have proved time again that they make unique pieces that separate them from everyone else, it is not a bad thing, in fact, to have inspiration and utilize it to create something similar. Not being the biggest fan of derbies in general, I think that what they have done to the facing of these shoes, make them that much more appealing, especially the canvas model above, right. And while I loving see shoes like this, it always disappoints me that in order to ever see them in person, I either have to purchase them or take a trip to Tokyo. And while a trip to Tokyo is something that I really want to do, I would very much like this to not be my only option in seeing them in the flesh.

Now, we look at the pictures of above and you see the spectators that remind me of some Edward Green's and then the single monk straps with the hand braided stitch, that might look like something Moreschi would conjure up. And it's wonderful. This brand, does it all!! They don't have just one way about them, they have all the ways of the world, making each one with their own Japanese twist. This is the way that I think that shoes should brands should be. But then again, there would be no distinction between brands if they all did everything. So it's refreshing to see that at least it is offered somewhere. A kind of one-stop-shop brand. I could not imagine going to the store where they sell these, it would literally break my wallet, in half! Well, if anyone has any other information they would like to share on this brand, please do not hesitate to leave it in the comment section, as I am sure that there will be many readers who may wish to know more....

READ MORE - More Japanese Shoes: Otsuka M-5

Today's Favorites - Blog Reader's Shoes from Septieme Largeur

One of the biggest reasons that I started this blog, was because I have a long term goal to see men wearing better shoes, in the sense that they actually appreciate what they are wearing on their feet. It does not have to be what I like, but it has to be evident that they actually care about what they are wearing. Too many men just don't care and it shows, and to me it's a great let down. Men back in the day, used to be worse than women in their attire and appearance. They took great pride in how they looked. And it was not feminine to do so, it was masculine. Caring about your appearance does not have to be about ego, but rather can be about appreciation and respect.

Part of that goal of seeing men caring more about their shoes, was for me to be a major influence into that. Starting this blog, was a way for me to give people knowledge, awareness and an appreciation for their footwear. So you understand when I tell you that it gives me great pleasure when any of you write me up and tell me about a pair of shoes that you either want to get or have already purchased, because of what you saw or read on my blog. And you can see here that one of my readers did so. He happened to go to Paris, visit Septieme Largeur, splurged a little and had two very beautiful shoes made up for him. Simply beautiful.....

READ MORE - Today's Favorites - Blog Reader's Shoes from Septieme Largeur

Shoes -- Part 3: Lasts

The single most important part of the shoe, is the last that it is made on. There are so many factors associated with the last that can tremendously affect the outcome of the final product. The slightest curvature or proportion measurement can make or break the look and feel of the shoe. Yet, many of us don't think about this. Too much emphasis is placed on the importance of the designer, the person who simply sketches out a drawing. But it's not them that deserve all of the credit. It's the technical people who then have to make the last and then the pattern, both of which are the things that truly create the magic. These are the people that turn that drawing into a real-life product. And like I have said before, it does not matter how cool, unique or original your design is, if your last shape is ugly or disproportionate or your pattern does not fit the curvature of your last, the final product will not look right. If this becomes the case your shoes will not sell, unless you give them away for pennies. Yet, we don't think about this....or do we?

RTW Lasts

There are two type of lasts: wooden and plastic. In the mass-production industry (AKA RTW), the lasts are going to be made of plastic. The reason being, is because plastic does not crack, especially when you are drilling holes through it, putting metal springs in it and affixing it to a machine that is able to duplicate it. A wooden last, simple could not go through what a plastic last can. It's needs to be molded, shaped and replicated by heavy machinery and I believe that all of these stages would end up breaking a wooden last.

RTW lasts are also (generally) on the bulky and lack-of-shape side. The unfortunate reason being is that when you are trying to fit a population of people, you need to make something that is able to accommodate at least 80-90% of those people or else your products won't sell that well. But the down side of this is that RTW shoes end up looking so bland, shapeless, common and ultimately, ugly. Where is the happy medium? That's the question. But I believe that there is one. A way that you can blend bespoke and RTW lasts together to make a last that stands above the rest. This is what I am trying to do with my line and we shall see how it comes out. But I cannot guarantee anything, especially since the old saying goes, 'if it was easy, everyone would be doing it.'

Bespoke Lasts

Bespoke lasts are amazing. Not only do they have character, but like I stated earlier, they have all of the shapes and curves that end up creating a beautiful product. As for their material, they will always be wooden, or at least they should be. And this is attributed to many reasons. First and foremost, this is what they had to work with many many years ago, when shoemaking came about. There was no plastic or heavy machinery to create mass runs of lasts. Traditional last makers created them scratch, using a block of wood and a big sickle-like blade that would shave off the pieces of the block like one would shave off coconut shavings onto your ice cream. However, this practice is rarely done these days, if not extinct as it take a tremendous amount of time and precision. Now days, most last makers will take from an existing last, and alter it to fit the measurements of the customer. Some find this to be cheating, but in reality, with the way the world is these days (financially), it does not make sense to do it the old way, nor does it really matter. It's really just a point of pride, being able to state that something was done from start to finish, by hand.

So next time you are in the market for a pair of shoes, study them first. Look at the shapes of the shoes, how they curve, how they accentuate at the joints and how the arch actually exists, instead of just being flat. And the shoes that you find with more shape to them, with more of an emphasis on their last, will be the shoes that not only look better but fit better.

Top became bottom

READ MORE - Shoes -- Part 3: Lasts