Shoes Of The Week - Riccardo Bestetti

I constantly get so jealous when I look through the pictures of shoes that Riccardo Bestetti has made. Not only because they are beautiful and I want them all but because his bespoke shoes are the closest thing in style, color, and detailing to what I see lacking in the shoe industry and what I hope to slowly but surely release into the world at non-bespoke prices. For instance, either on the those two whole cut loafers at the top, are something that I always felt was lacking yet I feel like they are such an elegant shoe that should be an option in the shoe stores. But they are not. They seem to only be an option if you are filthy rich and can afford to shell out 2000-3000 Euro/GBP/$ for a pair of shoes, which unfortunately only makes up around 1% of the population. So knowing that he is doing well and that people like his shoes gives me inspiration in knowing that when I make shoes (RTW) in similar styling, at a price that 50% of the population can afford, they too shall be well received!

Some Pictures Provided By: StyleForum

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Today's Favorites - Crocodile Whole Cuts by Riccardo Bestetti

There is beauty and then there is beauty. These shoes by Riccardo Bestetti fall into both categories. There is nothing quite like a whole cut shoe in crocodile, as I believe this is the only way that one should have it. Just the other day, this American gentleman was in G&H and he had a pair of crocodile cowboy boots in sea blue coloring that he wanted me to shine. While I was not so enamored with the fact that they were cowboy boots, I was head over heels for the leather in the magnificent blue that it was in. It made me think that one day, when I have enough money, I might commission Mr. Bestetti to make me a pair of these whole cuts in blue crocodile. What a sight that will be.... Anyway, enjoy the beautiful pieces of art that these are, and don't get too jealous of that beautiful fiddleback waist.

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Shoes Of The Week - Bontoni Whole Cuts

Even though I can be pretty ostentatious and like shoes that are crazy colors and uniquely designed, I still admire more than anything a shoe that defies all matter of out-of-the-box creativity and sticks to the basics, such as this elegant whole cut by Bontoni. And even more so, I love a whole cut that has brogueing on it. The brogueing somehow adds to the beauty of the shoe, not quite taking away from the fact that it is an actual whole cut, but providing that little bit of extra pizazz to not make it so plain and possibly boring. Then to top if all off, the leather of this shoe, which has clearly been given a beautiful patina, adds just that much more to the overall elegance and desirability of the shoe, creating something that in my mind will go down as one of the nicest shoes that I have ever seen. A bold statement definitely, but a true one....

Picture Compliments Of: The Style Buff

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What I Am Wearing

Sorry for all of the mean looking faces, but like a reader commented before, it's quite challenging to make a smile when you are taking a photo of yourself. I don't really why, but I find myself unable to smile when I am taking these photos. Even when I try, it just comes out like a forced smirk, but never a genuine smile. Anyway, I am wrapping up the rest of my waistcoat outfits, as the weather is quickly turning quite cold and windy. Now you will start to notice that my v-neck sweaters (jumpers) will be my staple piece, as I love layering. The tie that I am wearing in this picture is definitely one of my favorites, as it is just so bold and intricate. It's not one for everyone so I understand if some of you may not agree, but it is definitely one of those ties that commands attention. And while the paisley era is over, I still like to bring it out every now and then!

Shoes: Salvatore Ferragamo -- Tramezza line
Tie: Robert Talbott -- Best of Class series
Trousers: H&M
Waistcoat: J.Crew
Shirt: Primark

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Today's Favorites - a.Testoni

One thing that you do not see that often, is people wearing red shoes. Granted, the Pope, has done a good job at trying to promote them, but it so far hasn't seemed to catch on. I guess that I can understand why too. They do make quite a statement. When I wear my red wingtips with white piping, you can believe that there is not a shortage of looks that I receive, whether they are in adoration or in revulsion. Nevertheless, it doesn't bother me, but then again, I don't break them out that often. However, these ones by a.Testoni, on the other hand (although may be red), do not seem to be too overbearing. At least, this is what I gather from the picture. In person, they might blind the most conservative of sorts. However, I believe that with a nice navy suit, maybe a flannel one, these shoes could be quite a lovely contrast. Definitely a shoe for a shoe lover, and I won't say as I usually do that they could be integrated into a business environment, because they could not. But I will say, that red can indeed pair nicely with many suit colors, should one be so creative to attempt it.

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Exotics - Your cow leather alternatives

Shoes Above: Crocodile by Riccardo Bestetti

Up until I moved to Italy to learn bespoke shoemaking, I never really was a fan of exotics. This was partly due to the fact that in America, certain exotic leathers are made in a way that they are insanely gaudy i.e. blue and green 'pythons', yellow 'gators,' pink stingray etc. And the other reason being that many of them are made, in my opinion, on the ugliest lasts and in terrible styles. So, needless to say, living in the States gave me a very skewed perspective on how I felt about exotic leathers. It wasn't until I went to Stefano Bemer's RTW shop and saw these two crocodile derbies (one pictured below in red) that I began to understand that exotic leather shoes can be made beautifully...

Sea Creatures - Shark, Stingray, Fish etc.

This category is probably (no, definitely) my least favorite of the exotic leather kingdom. With the exception of shark, I really don't care for anything made from a creature that comes from under the water. I see, admire and appreciate beautiful stingray shoes made by Riccardo Bestetti, but I just don't seem to ever really desire them, especially when they have the white bit on them that looks like an eye or something. Fish too, simply awful in my opinion. While it can give a cool-looking effect, it just seems so limiting to me. What if the scales flake off? And you can't shine them, not well at least. But hey, to each his own right?

Shoes Above: Stingray by Riccardo Bestetti
Shoes Below: (L) Sharkskin by Stefano Bemer; (R) Morse Fish skin

Reptiles - Snake, Crocodile, Alligator, Lizard etc.  

Another category that I cannot say that I am ecstatic about, but I can say that I do like a nice wholecut made in crocodile or alligator. The key here is about choosing the leather properly, making sure that it's symmetry is as tidy as can be and the the scales are not too differentiating. But this is difficult (and extremely costly) to do. That's the reason why, you see that few people can do it. And they are usually the people whose shoes cost $1000+ just for their calf skin shoes, let alone the price of a crocodile shoe. Snake skin I am just not a fan of period and lizard I can only do in small amounts, like the facing of a shoe or some sort of accent on it. Now just because I know that this might come up, I will preemptively say, without embarrassment, that I have no clue how to tell the difference between crocodile and alligator. I do know that there is (according to experts) a difference between their scales but cannot say with confidence what that difference is. So, if you are one of those experts reading, then please feel free to leave a comment, in order to enlighten us all.

Shoes Above: Crocodile by Stefano Bemer
Shoes Below: (First Row) L - Croc by Dimitri Gomez; R - Snakeskin by Sperry (I believe)
                      (Second Row) L - Anthony Delos; R - Alligator by Gaziano & Girling
                      (Thrid Row) Lizard by Carreducker

Others - Carpincho, Pig, Elephant, Russian Reindeer, Mountain Ram, Pony, Ostrich etc.

Now this jumbled category does contain many of the exotic leathers that I find to be much more appealing. That being, it would appear that I tend to appreciate things that seem to have legs, with the exception of pony and ostrich that is done awfully. But the rest of these can produce a shoe that is not only intriguing but very cool too. Funny thing is, since delving myself head first into the shoe industry, I had never seen many of these leathers let alone heard of them being used to make shoes. But after having seen the likes of carpincho and mountain ram, I will definitely be on the hunt to acquire a pair or two in the --most likely distant-- future.

Shoes Above: Carpincho by George Cleverley
Shoes Below: (First Row) L - Elephant by Koronya; R - Pony by Jan Kielman
                      (Second Row) L - Russian Reindeer by George Cleverley; R - Pigskin by Gaziano & Girling
                      (Third Row) Elephant by Stefano Bemer (both)
                      (Fourth Row) L - Ostrich by Barker Black; R - Mountain Ram by George Cleverley

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A Return To Italy (and Stefano Bemer)

Over my quick holiday visit to the in-laws in Perugia, Italy, I managed to pop over to my old town of Firenze (where I once lived for circa 1 year). I had the intention of going back to Stefano Bemer's shop (where I learned to make bespoke shoes) and saying hi to all of my old colleagues, as well as hopefully snapping some pictures of any new models made. Being that plans don't always happen they way that you want them to (and that fact that my wife was waiting for me at a nearby cafe) I was unable to take any pictures, as my time was rushed having to explain to my friends what I am currently up to while trying my best to speak in rusty, broken Italian. It was quite unfortunate, though, as Stefano was not around and I was unable to tell him of my progress, of which I hope that he would have been proud to say that it all started at his shop, my entrance into the bespoke shoe realm.... Nevertheless, I remembered that while living there, I had taken many pictures of the shop that I don't believe I ever posted on the blog, and thought that now would be the perfect time to do so.

If you look at the picture at the very top, you can see that two of the bespoke shoes that I made (#2 & #5) came from the patterns of the shoes second from the left and third from the right, only that I slightly altered minute details such as coloring, piping thickness and last shape. Looking back at these pictures (which only make up a small amount of the entire collection), I must say that Stefano Bemer, while relatively unknown by the majority of people, makes some of the most beautiful shoes that I have ever seen! He is excellent, in my opinion, at pairing certain patterns (designs) with certain last shapes as well as putting together wonderful color combinations. With that in mind, I still wonder why you don't find his shoes selling at more outlets around the world....

While I had a great time in Italy (living there and learning) and would not have traded that experience for anything in the world, I realized that during my short and nostalgic visit back, that I have truly found myself in probably the absolute best place that I could be for making my goals come into fruition (that being London). It makes one realize how funny and coincidental life can be. And if you would have asked me 6-7 years ago, whether I could see myself being and living in London, I would have said, "no way!"  But now I am here, and I feel like I have found my second home, a place that I enjoy and can feel comfortable and secure in. It's a great a feeling and am glad to have had this trip back to Italy to be able to experience it......Anyway enough of the sentimental babble, I hope that all of you had a wonderful holiday season and are getting ready for a great New Year's celebration. 2012 is going to be a great one!!

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

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