Showing posts with label Gieves and Hawkes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gieves and Hawkes. Show all posts

What I Am Wearing


For those that have been big time followers of my blog, you will know that I used to do a post called, "My Shoes," of which I wanted to give you all a chance to see the shoes that I, the self-proclaimed 'Shoe Snob', own and allow you all to critique me. But no one did so and I could not be bothered to constantly have to pick a different shoe to wear just to take a picture of. Plus, maybe you all don't care about my 100+ shoes. Therefore, I have decided to change it up a bit. I figured that since I put of loads of colorful and quirky shoes up on my blog, and it may not be the easiest thing to justify not only owning but buying these types of shoes, that I would show all of you my outfits 2-3 times a week so see how I do it. Therefore, for those of you who wish to branch out of the realm of wearing just black shoes, I can hopefully provide you with a visual stepping-stone to do so. I hope that you all enjoy my outfits. Please feel free to comment, even if negative.

Shoes: Gieves & Hawkes loafers by Edward Green with patina done by Paulus Bolten
DB Jacket: Vintage
Pants: H&M
Shirt: Primark
Bow-tie: Gieves & Hawkes
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What I Am Wearing


Today, I felt like wearing my new green brogues. They are somewhat hard to match with so I decided to just wear a predominantly blue outfit, as I feel that the green brogues blend well with these colors. As always I apologize for my pictures, as they are not of the caliber that a proper blogger should have. I am pretty rubbish when it comes to getting good at using cameras, but promise that soon, I will have not only a more clean look to my blog but also better quality photos. Just bear with me. On the note of plugging ahead, I am actually going to be heading on a short business trip. A trip that will have my shoes designs coming to life as tangible products. I am going to bring my computer with me, just in case I have enough time to let you all know what I am up to, but if you do not hear from me until Friday night, this is why.....Big things are happening and all of my talk about starting my own shoe line, will soon materialize!

Shoes: Bespoke made by me, with G&G 'Rothschild' upper
Jacket: H&M
Trousers: H&M
Knit Tie: Gieves & Hawkes
Shirt: Primark
Watch: Nixon
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Edward Green's & Three-Piece Suits: Part 2


A while back I wrote a post about how I have always wanted to own Edward Green shoes and a three-piece suit and the fact that since I was now in England (earning in the British pound) it should make it easier to acquire these two things. Well, I finally got them, as I am showing you today. The only problem is that the Edward Green's are not stamped Edward Green, but rather Gieves & Hawkes. But they were made by EG, so for now that will have to do, until I get a pair from the store or something. Aside from that little oversight, I am quite pleased to have been able to get what I have always wanted. Granted, getting a three-piece suit in the States would not have been that difficult but I am a picky guy and the only options out there were way above my pay grade. And let's be fair, the tailoring in the States in no where near what it is on Savile Row. So, me being the patient one that I tend normally not to be, worked out great in the end with this made-to-measure number. And now I just need to continue building up my three-piece and double-breasted suit wardrobe....!






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Carreducker Trunk Shows & Saint Crispin Event

Photo Courtesy Of: Adrian Lourie (London)


I thought that this little bit of information might interest some of you.....

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

TRUNK SHOW

Carreducker is off to the US next week for its first joint Gieves & Hawkes / carréducker bespoke Trunk Show to the USA. 

14 & 15 October at The Intercontinental Chicago
17, 18 & 19 October at The Plaza, New York

Alongside the company's more adventurous samples, they are showcasing the Mayfair collection - the ultimate black bespoke shoes - a pared-back Oxford, Wholecut, Derby and Loafer - as well as offering rubber soles as an option for bespoke customers (not just popular, but essential on America’s east coast).  Having bespoke shoemaking and tailoring together is convenient and an ideal opportunity for customers to go for a full top-to-toe bespoke wardrobe. Customers can make an appointment with carreducker by email at cd@carreducker.com and with Head Cutter Kathryn Sargent at sargentk@gievesandhawkes.com


ST CRISPIN'S DAY 

As you know, October is a very special month in the shoemaking calendar as we celebrate the patron saint of shoemakers Saints Crispin and Hugh on 25 October. Both men were disinherited by their wealthy families and became shoemakers before being finally put to death: St Crispin in France in 288 A.D. and St. Hugh in England. St Hugh’s name lives on as the nickname for a shoemaker’s tools - Sir Hugh’s Bones. 

The day is normally one of revelry and holiday but we shall instead be showing off our skills throughout the week in the Gieves & Hawkes flagship store window on Vigo street. Please come by to wave at us and to say ‘hi’ at 10.30am, 12.30pm and 3pm.





















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Loafers With Suits


A topic that is always good for discussion, which usually ends up in subjective opposing views, is more likely than not, a topic that is worth revisiting. And while I am pretty sure that I have never brought up this topic before, I believe that there are many opinions about the subject at hand. Since I am currently dressed in the fashion that I am presenting, please allow me to share with all of you, my subjective viewpoint on loafers with suits.



While an oxford will always be a more formal shoe than a loafer there are still many options of slip on's that are elegantly compatible to a suit. Anybody who says otherwise needs to learn that the so called 'rules' set out by well-dressed gentleman many years ago, were not the 'end all be all' and definitely do not dictate what one should wear but rather guide them to dressing elegantly. After that, style sets in and people decide for themselves (based on personal preferences) what will look good on them. Some of them pull it off and some of them don't.

Now the beauty about wearing loafers with your suits is that you are able to show off your socks. But this is dangerous game, because there is a fine line between doing what looks good and doing something that is horribly off. I have my own opinions about this and I will present them here as we shall go through what works and what doesn't.


ALWAYS














Shoes By: Hugo Boss 

Wearing socks that match your suit are generally regarded as a safe way to go. Granted, it's not always that fun as it kind of just blends your suit into your shoes, but it's always a sure way to not drag attention and to look more on the elegant side of things. However, you can spice it up while still playing it relatively safe by having a two-toned sock with one color matching your trousers and the other of a complimentary color. That way you are being safe but also adding a bit of spice to your outfit. Me being the style freak that I am, I usually will like to have that complimentary color (the one that does not match my trouser) match either my shirt or my tie.

SOMETIMES



Shoes By: Poulsen & Skone for Gieves & Hawkes

Before coming to England, I used to love wearing striped socks (like the ones I am wearing above) and quite frankly still do, but must admit I have been overtaken for an admiration of bright, solid color socks that you find many British men wearing. As you can see here, my friend and colleague, Stuart, is doing the right thing in this scenario by pairing complimentary colors coming from his shoes, socks and trousers (navy suit). So, when I say that this look is 'sometimes', it's because there are instances when people become a little overzealous and start wearing socks that completely clash and stick out like a sore thumb, causing a bit of overkill. Sorry that I don't have an example of that, but I am sure that you will know what I mean at the first instance that you see it.  

NEVER
























Right Picture Courtesy Of: The Sartorialist

While Lapo Elkann is a dandy and wears some of the coolest outfits, and the guy on the right is incredibly sharp, I just find it very hard to appreciate the idea of going sock-less when wearing a sharp suit or black loafers. To me, it's just big clash, from the look to the elegance of it to the fact that neither one of these people are in a tropical area. Granted, there is a place and a time and a color of suit and loafers when wanting to go sock-less, but neither one of these cases fits the criteria. Wearing a linen suit, with some brown (or lighter shades of color) loafers, in an area that is humid, sunny and full of palm trees, smoking a cigar with your Borsalino hat on: this is time for going sock-less with your suit. But having a navy suit with black loafers, just doesn't mesh. It's too trendy and not timeless and therefore I give it the thumbs down.

And while there is no right or wrong, there definitely is what looks good and what doesn't. Now, coming from a relatively non-traditionalist background, my rules are pretty lenient. Others however, would not even pair loafers with suits, but that way of thinking is not going to be around much longer. So, if you have always been on the fence, give it a go, and play around with your socks, because I can tell you, the people who make me look twice at their outfits are the ones who are going bold but also staying classic and elegant at the same time. Figure that on out!
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What I Am Wearing


This is an older picture, when I was using my sub-par camera, but I wanted to show you a little bit more of how I sport the green shoes, as well as give off my Gordon Gekko, Wall Street look. On that note, there is yet another thing that I have become enamored with since arriving on Savile Row: the braces (suspenders), particularly these cotton one's that we sell at Gieves & Hawkes. Since working here, I have purchased all four of the colors that they come in: black, navy, light blue and red. While I tend to get the most use out of the navy, I still enjoy having my options and am looking to get them in green, purple and gray, when I can.

I have yet to venture off pairing my green brogues with anything other than navy, but there are an array of trouser colors that would suit a pair of green shoes. As I move into my new flat in London (as we speak) and finally have ALL of my stuff in one place, I will be able to pick my outfits a lot better, putting together concoctions that I have to imagine up!

Shoes: Bespoke, made by me, using Rothschild upper from G&G, and hand dyed by myself.
Trousers: H&M
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Hardy Amies
Braces: Gieves & Hawkes




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What I Am Wearing



The more and more that you see my personal collection, the more that you will realize that I love to gravitate towards two-toned shoes. This is actually a pair, despite being colors that I don't particularly think go that well together, is one of my favorite models. The only shame is, the more that I spend wearing bespoke shoes and shoes that come in narrow width, the more that I feel that many of the shoes that I bought in America, are too big. In the sense that being the fool that I can be, I would just always buy US 8D, thinking that they would be fine. But like shoes do, some fit bigger than others, and if you look closely you will notice that the sides of these are gaping, indicating that there is too much space. Needless to say, after wearing these for the first time in about a year or two, I came to the conclusion that I am going to sell them, as I no longer need them and need to free up space in my miniature European closet. So after I clean them up a bit, I will be putting them up for sale! Be on the look out if you fancy them.

Shoes: Magnanni
Suit: Gieves & Hawkes
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Gieves & Hawkes




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Red Trousers....Get Some!



I am not 100% positive in saying this, but I am quite sure that I prior to moving to Europe to study shoemaking, I never ever saw anyone wear red trousers. But over here in Europe, they are literally a staple piece in most stylish mens' wardrobe, which I think is quite great! I feel like many men in the States (or maybe just Seattle, where I am from) are mentally confined to simply wearing either navy, gray or khaki colored trousers. Yet over here, come Spring, you see everything but those, ranging from canary yellow, to baby blue to bright green. Obviously not everyone partakes in the colored trouser activity, but it is quite appealing to see just how elaborate people's outfits can become when they do give it a shot. While I can't say that I own any of those other colors that I just listed, I do find myself gravitating towards my reds quite often. And the nice thing about them (at least the color) is that they are not simply for spring occasions, being that they are a deeper red, which allows me to also put them on in the fall/winter. So, if you don't own a pair, I suggest you reconsider....it will liven up your wardrobe!

Shoes: Septieme Largeur (with custom blue patina)
Trousers: Zara
Jacket: Pete Werth
Jumper: Intimissimi
Shirt: Primark
Bow Tie: Gieves & Hawkes




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What I Am Wearing



One of the biggest perks about working at a tailor's shop (apart from the amazing alterations that I manage to sneak in) is the fact that I get to take part in some of the best deals, like sample sales and private sales for the staff. Recently there was a sale for all of the staff of G&H of which they were offering some of the archival pieces from their military collection. A lot of this stuff was bespoke made and aged in range from 5-50+ years. It was on a first come first serve basis, so I managed to get in early and nab a couple of brilliant pieces such as this double-breasted naval blazer. Luckily for me, none of the insignia that typically adorns naval clothing was affixed to the jacket, so there were minimal alterations, especially considering the fact that it was as if the gentleman that they made it for was identical to me, only from the 1970's. Nevertheless, I have been very fortunate in my time here with being able to acquire some lovely clothing, and I must say that it has been a great pleasure having this advantage! (Sorry don't mean to rub it in...)

Shoes: Septieme Largeur
Blazer: Gieves & Hawkes
Trousers: H&M
Shirt: TK Maxx brand
Tie: XMI 




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What I Am Wearing



Before coming to England, I can wholeheartedly admit that I did not have a clue about suits and good tailoring. I used to even work in a place that sold (what I believed to be) nice suits but after seeing the quality of the cuts and tailors here on the Row (as we snobs like to call it), I now realize that what I used to see in the States was like a top sirloin from the grocery store and now I am dabbling in the Kobe beef from a 5-star restaurant. It's absolutely amazing what a good tailor can not only do for your figure, but for your whole image, and here at Gieves, we have someone who is rumored to be among the best and considering some of the things that I have seen him do, I don't doubt it! And in this new found passion of mine (whereby I am selling my personal shoes to buy more suits), I have come to love a nice double-breasted suit. Something about it just really appeals to me even though I am quite sure that I may not have the stature for them, as I am not the tallest of guys. Nevertheless, I don't care and will continue to pick up more and more of them, in every color I can! I must admit though, that my next order of suiting, is unfortunately not a DB, but rather a lovely navy flannel, peak lapel, single button suit and I can't wait to get it!!

Shoes: J.FitzPatrick design, Gaziano & Girling produced
Suit: Gieves (older label)
Shirt: TK Maxx
Tie: Robert Talbott, Best Of Class




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What I Am Wearing



For the life of me, I still cannot understand why I don't see more gentlemen wearing burgundy shoes. Come to think of it, I can't seem to recall, ever since I have been in this country (England), having seen someone wearing burgundy shoes with a suit, and almost, burgundy shoes period. It's such a lovely color that compliments blue better than any other color (even brown), yet it would appear that not many other people share that same sentiment. It could also very well be that English shoemakers (from what I have seen) don't really offer that many shoes in the burgundy color. Sure they may have one or two out of their entire collection, but if you don't happen to like the model that the burgundy shoe comes in, you aren't going to buy it, are you? It's literally like people have just been conditioned to make black shoes and wear them, with everything they have. Of course you have the rebellious ones that wear brown, but rare are the men who put on a burgundy shoe. Well, for now I guess that I will stand alone, and hope that with the introduction of my shoe line, and my burgundy wholecut that will be offered, more people will see that it's a lovely color that compliments, beautifully, a navy suit!

Shoes: Bespoke, made by me
Suit: Gieves & Hawkes, Made To Measure
Shirt: Don't remember, from TK Maxx
Tie: Tino Cosma



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